First History Lessons: Food and Eating

First History Lessons: Food and Eating is part of a series "Revisiting the Craft of History Writing for Children" published by the Institute of Development Studies, Kolkata with support from Rosa Luxemburg Stiftung. The project involves the writing and publication of a series of illustrated history books for children, 12 to 14 years of age. 

Published in October 2024, this book explores the historical and social dimensions of food and eating habits in India. The book has been written by Anwesha Sengupta and Simantini Mukhopadhyay, translated by Arunava Sinha, and contains illustrations by pata artists Ranjit Chitrakar and Sirajudaulla Chitrakar. The book notes that food habits and practices have been shaped by colonial policies, economic structures, and social hierarchies – revealing food as a site of power, control, and resistance.

This 62-page document is structured into five chapters: "The Battle Between Rice and Rotis" (Chapter 1); "Eat, But How Much?" (Chapter 2); "Who's Cooking?" (Chapter 3); "Stories of Protests, Support, and Unity" (Chapter 4); and "And Finally" (Chapter 5). These chapters explore themes such as the colonial-era debates on rice versus wheat consumption, food rationing and malnutrition, the gendered nature of cooking labour, and the role of food in resistance movements like Shaheen Bagh.

The book traces historical conflicts over staple foods, particularly as examined in Chapter 1. British administrators labeled rice-eating communities in Bengal and South India as weak and lazy, while portraying wheat-consuming North Indians as stronger and more industrious, the book notes. These narratives influenced British recruitment policies for army and administrative positions, creating stereotypes that persisted long after independence.

Chapter 2 focuses on the politics of hunger and food scarcity. Under British rule, scientific studies aimed to rationalize rations required to merely survive rather than ensuring adequate nutrition. The notorious Temple Ration introduced during famines provided insufficient food, as low as one pound of grain a day. Post-independence India faced severe food shortages, leading to dependence on wheat imports from America. The mid-day meal programs, which began in the year 1937 and continues to be served in all government-run schools today, often refects caste and religious biases, with some communities rejecting food cooked by Dalits or Muslims.

Chapter 3 thoroughly examines the gendered and caste-based nature of cooking. While women have been historically confined to domestic kitchens performing unpaid labor, men have dominated professional culinary spaces in royal courts, restaurants, and large community kitchens. Rigid social barriers determined who could cook for whom, particularly in households where food prepared by individuals belonging to so-called lower castes was considered impure.

Chapter 4 highlights food's role in political movements. During the Shaheen Bagh protests against the Citizenship Amendment Act, women organized community kitchens that both sustained protesters and symbolized resistance. Sikh farmers brought food from Punjab, demonstrating cross-religious solidarity. During the COVID-19 lockdown, grassroots initiatives distributed food to migrant workers and daily wage earners, highlighting both government policy failures and community resilience.

In its concluding section, the book notes that food is deeply political, shaping social hierarchies and power structures. While it has historically been used to reinforce caste, class, and gender inequalities, it has also served as a medium for solidarity and collective resistance. By weaving together historical research, cultural references, poetry, and personal narratives, this book encourages young readers to critically examine their own food practices and the broader politics of food in society.

Focus by Shaurya Singh.