“When there is no work [in the fields], I go into the forest to collect karmata fruits and other produce,” says Gangay. She is referring to the laaood, a sacred grove and scrubby forest that surrounds her hamlet, Balenga Para. Dark grey boulders, some the size of village houses, others as big as a cars, are scattered across the plains. The old trees tower over the landscape, their branches thickly covered with vines.
Balenga para is a hamlet at the edge of the Amravati forest in the Bastar region. From Rajnandgaon town in southern Chhattisgarh, it is an eight-hour rickety bus journey followed by a winding two-kilometre walk to reach there. In the hamlet, only the main street is tarred while the rest are dirt paths, dusty and speckled with cow-dung. Balenga Para’s 336 inhabitants (Census 2011) live around the main street in roughly 60 single-storey houses. Some are old and brown, and made of mud and brick. A few are new, made of concrete and tin or asbestos roofs, some of them painted neon shades of green and pink.
Gangay Sodhi, 33, is from the Gond Adivasi community. She speaks Halbi, Gondi and a little Hindi. Shy at first, she later agreed to let us write about her life.
Gangay spends her days taking care of her family, working in her father’s fields and making liquor from mahua flowers to sell at the weekly haat (market).
Her day starts early, at around 5 a.m. “I pound the paddy to de-husk it for the day’s meals. I wash dishes and fetch water from the nearby pump and get firewood. I make breakfast and go to work on the fields by 10.” By noon she is back home for a brief lunch, and then gone again. She finishes by four. “I bathe, fetch more water and firewood, sometimes replace the cow-dung flooring, and cook dinner of rice and curry [both vegetarian and non-vegetarian]. On special occasions we eat poori with a kheer [made of broken wheat].”
Gangay lives with her mother Kumenti and father Mangalram, her siblings Shivraj, Umesh, Sahandai and Ratni, and her three daughters – Jiteshwari, 15, Jyoti, 13, and 11-year-old Pratima – in a house just off the street. It’s close to the water pump – the only source of water in the village. Her brick house with a terracotta tiled roof is painted a bright green. At the foot of the door are spiral patterns made by coloured glass bangles inlaid in the floor.






