"It's been seven months and the doctor says I should consume fruits and milk. Now tell me, how can I get all that? If they allowed me to go to the river, I could also ride a boat and feed my children and myself," Sushma Devi (name changed) says as she waits for her turn at the hand-pump. She is seven months pregnant and a widow.
Ride a boat? Sushma Devi, 27, is from the Nishad community. The males of this caste group are mostly boatmen. There are 135 of them in her hamlet of Kewatra in Majhgawan block of Madhya Pradesh’s Satna district. Her 40-year-old husband Vijay Kumar (name changed) was one of them, till he died in an accident five months ago. They were married for seven years. Sushma herself was never trained to row a boat, but is confident that she could, having been out on rides a few times with Vijay.
Under lockdown, though, not a single boat is plying on this stretch of the Mandakini river that divides this region of Chitrakoot between Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh.
It’s an hour after sunset when we see the first streetlight leading into Kewatra. Sushma has arrived at the village hand-pump with her youngest child, to fetch water in a plastic bucket. That’s where we meet her.
The Nishads earn a living by rowing boats on and across the Mandakini river. Chitrakoot is a famous pilgrimage centre, drawing lakhs of devotees around the Diwali season. The Nishad boats in Ramghat on the Mandakini – about a kilometre from Kewatra – ferry pilgrims to holy spots like Bharat Ghat and Goenka Ghat.
That’s when the Nishads make the most money they do in the year. Up to Rs. 600 a day – which is 2-3 times their daily take outside that season.






