Coconut in open palm and outstretched hand, Poojari Anjaneyulu walks out across the fields of Muddalapuram. He waits for the coconut to spin, tilt and fall. It does. This, he assures us, is the spot marked ‘X.’ “Here you will find water. Sink a borewell at this exact spot and you’ll see,” he tells us in this village of Anantapur district.
Just a village away, Rayulu Dhomathimmana slouches across another field. The big forked twig he holds with both hands will guide him to water in Rayalappadoddi. “When the twig jerks upwards,” he explains, “that’s the location.” Rayulu modestly claims a “90 per cent success” rate for his method.
In a different mandal of Anantapur, Chandrashekhar Reddy grapples with the question that has baffled philosophers down the ages. Is there life after death? Reddy believes he knows the answer. “Water is life,” he says. And so has sunk four borewells in a graveyard. He has another 32 in his fields. And he has linked his spread out sources of water across his village of Jambuladhine with an 8-kilometre long pipeline.
Superstition, the occult, God, government, technology and coconuts, have all been pressed into service in Anantapur’s desperate search for water. Their combined strike rate has not been impressive. Poojari Anjaneyulu, though, claims otherwise.
The gentle, pleasant-mannered man says his method does not fail. He gained his skills from God. “The only time it can let us down is when people force me to do this at the wrong hour,” he says. (God charges 300 rupees a borewell point). And takes us across the fields, coconut swaying in his palm.









