“If the paan [betel leaf] had survived, it would have earned me at least two lakh rupees [in 2023],” says the 29-year-old farmer from Dheuri village, regret and sadness in her voice. Karuna Devi lost her June 2023 crop to extreme heat waves in Nawada district of Bihar. Her bareja , once a lush garden, brimming with shiny leaves of the famed Magahi betel leaf on its trellises turned into a skeletal structure. She was forced to take up jobs in others' barejas .

Nawada was among a dozen districts which faced the wrath of intense heat for days. “ Lagta tha ki aasman se aag baras raha hai aur humlog jal jayenge. Dopahar ko to gaon ekdam sunsan ho jata tha jaise ki karfu lag gaya ho [It seemed as if fire was raining from the sky and we would be burnt. In the afternoon the village would become completely deserted as if curfew had been imposed],” she adds, describing the heat that year. The district’s Warisaliganj weather station recorded a maximum temperature at 45.9 degree Celsius. And the subsequent heatwave that followed killed more than 100 people in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, according to a report published in The Hindu , dated June 18, 2023.

Despite the blistering heat, “we would go to bareja ,” Karuna Devi says. The family was not taking any risk as they had taken a loan of Rs. 1 lakh to cultivate Magahi betel leaf a bareja spread over an area of six cottah [roughly 8,000 sq ft].

Betel leaf farmers, Karuna Devi and Sunil Chaurasia in their bareja . Their son holding a few gourds grown alongside the betel vines, and the only crop (for their own use) that survived
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Betel leaf farmers, Karuna Devi and Sunil Chaurasia in their bareja . Their son holding a few gourds grown alongside the betel vines, and the only crop (for their own use) that survived

Newada district experienced intense heat in the summer of 2023, and many betel leaf farmers like Sunil (left) were badly hit. Karuna Devi (right) also does daily wage work in other farmers' betel fields for which she earns Rs. 200 a day
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
Newada district experienced intense heat in the summer of 2023, and many betel leaf farmers like Sunil (left) were badly hit. Karuna Devi (right) also does daily wage work in other farmers' betel fields for which she earns Rs. 200 a day
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Newada district experienced intense heat in the summer of 2023, and many betel leaf farmers like Sunil (left) were badly hit. K a runa Devi (right) also does daily wage work in other farmers' betel fields for which she earns Rs. 200 a day

A betel-leaf garden is called bareja or baretha in Bihar. The delicate vines cannot handle extreme weather and this hut-like structure protects them from the scorching sun in summer and harsh winds in winter. It is typically fenced with sticks of bamboo, and palm and coconut fronds, coir, paddy straws, and arhar stalks. Inside the bareja, the soil is ploughed into long and deep furrows. Stems are planted in such a way that water does not collect near the root and rot the plants.

Last year, to counter the intense heat, Karuna Devi’s husband recalls how “we watered only 2-3 times a day as irrigating more would have increased expenses. But the weather was so hot that it didn't survive. “Plants started drying up, and soon the bareja was laid to waste,” says 40- year-old Sunil Chaurasia. Their entire cultivation of betel leaf was lost. “I don't know how the loan will be repaid,” says a worried Karuna.

Weather patterns in the Magadh region are changing, say scientists studying the region. “We are seeing that what used to be a homogeneous weather pattern has now become quite erratic. There is a sudden increase in temperature and sometimes it rains heavily within a day or two," says environmental scientist, Prof. Pradhan Parth Sarthi.

Average temperatures have shot up by 0.5 degree Celsius over the period 1958-2019, says a research paper titled ‘Environmental change and groundwater variability in South Bihar, India,’ published in Science Direct journal in 2022. Greater unpredictability of monsoon rainfall is also evident from the 1990s onwards, it says.

Magahi paan needs fertile clay loam soil found in the Magadh region in Bihar. Water logging can be fatal to the crop, so paan farmers usually select land with proper drainage to cultivate it
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
Magahi paan needs fertile clay loam soil found in the Magadh region in Bihar. Water logging can be fatal to the crop, so paan farmers usually select land with proper drainage to cultivate it
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Magahi paan needs fertile clay loam soil found in the Magadh region in Bihar. W ater logging can be fatal to the crop, so paan farmers usually select land with proper drainage to cultivate it

A betel-leaf garden is called bareja in Bihar. This hut-like structure protects the delicate vines from the scorching sun in summers and harsh winds in winters. It is typically fenced with sticks of bamboo, and palm and coconut fronds, coir, paddy straws, and arhar stalks. Inside the bareja , the soil is ploughed into long and deep furrows. Stems are planted in such a way that water does not collect near the root and rot the vine
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
A betel-leaf garden is called bareja in Bihar. This hut-like structure protects the delicate vines from the scorching sun in summers and harsh winds in winters. It is typically fenced with sticks of bamboo, and palm and coconut fronds, coir, paddy straws, and arhar stalks. Inside the bareja , the soil is ploughed into long and deep furrows. Stems are planted in such a way that water does not collect near the root and rot the vine
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

A betel-leaf garden is called bareja in Bihar. This hut-like structure protects the delicate vines from the scorching sun in summers and harsh winds in winters. It is typically fenced with sticks of bamboo, and palm and coconut fronds, coir, paddy straws, and arhar stalks. Inside the bareja , the soil is ploughed into long and deep furrows. Stems are planted in such a way that water does not collect near the root and rot the vine

Magahi paan ka kheti jua jaisa ha i [ Magahi betel leaf cultivation is as uncertain as gambling],” says Ajay Prasad Chaurasia, another farmer of Dheuri village. He is speaking for the many Magahi farmers who now live on the edge. “We work very hard, but there is no guarantee that betel plants will survive.”

Successive years of extreme weather is playing havoc with Magahi betel crops in the area. Betel leaves are traditionally grown by Chaurasias who belong to the Extremely Backward Class [EBC] in Bihar. There are over six lakh Chaurasias in the state, according to a recent caste survey conducted by the Bihar government.

Dheuri village lies in Hisua block of Nawada; of its population of 1,549 (Census 2011), more than half are engaged in agriculture.

Betel leaf farmer Ajay Chaurasia says, ' Magahi betel leaf cultivation is as uncertain as gambling...we work very hard, but there is no guarantee that betel plants will survive'
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Betel leaf farmer Ajay Chaurasia says, ' Magahi betel leaf cultivation is as uncertain as gambling...we work very hard, but there is no guarantee that betel plants will survive'

The 2023 heatwave was preceded by a spell of very heavy rain in 2022. “ Lagta tha jaise pralay aane wala ho. Andhera chha jata tha aur lagatar barsa hota tha. Humlog bheeg bheeg kar khet mein rahte the. [It looked like catastrophe was on the way. The day would turn dark followed by heavy rain. We would drench ourselves in water and despite this, stay in the field],” says Ranjit Chaurasia.

The 55-year-old says he came down with a fever after that, and he also incurred a big loss. “Majority of betel plant farmers in my village suffered loss that year,” he says. “I had cultivated betel leaf in five cottah [roughly 6,800 sq ft]. The betel vines dried up due to waterlogging.” Cyclone Asani in Odisha had caused the heavy rain that lasted for three -four days.

“Heatwaves dry out the soil, preventing the growth and when there is sudden rainfall, plants dry up," adds Ranjit who is also president of the farmers collective, Magahi Pan Utpadak Kalyan Samiti here. "The plants were new. They should have been looked after like a newborn baby. Those who did not, their betel vines dried up,” he says.

In 2023, Ranjit says his plants survived the severe heatwave as he sprinkled water multiple times, “I had to water it many times. Sometimes 10 times a day."

Uncertainty of weather and subsequent crop losses, has forced many farmers of Dheuri village to give up betel cultivation. 'Till 10 years ago, more than 150 farmers used to cultivate betel leaf in 10 hectares, but now their number has reduced to less than 100 and currently it is being grown in 7-8 hectares,' says Ranjit Chaurasia
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Uncertainty of weather and subsequent crop losses, has forced many farmers of Dheuri village to give up betel cultivation. 'Till 10 years ago, more than 150 farmers used to cultivate betel leaf in 10 hectares, but now their number has reduced to less than 100 and currently it is being grown in 7-8 hectares,' says Ranjit Chaurasia

Fellow Magahi farmer and neighbour Ajay says he faced losses twice in five years due to extreme weather events. In 2019, the 45-year-old had grown betel in four cottah (roughly 5,444 sq ft ). It was ruined by severe cold; in October 2021, heavy rains brought by cyclone Gulab completely damaged the leaves. “I incurred a total loss of around Rs. 2 lakhs in both years,” he recalls.

*****

Ajay Chourasia is tying the betel vines to thin stalks of bamboo or sarkanda to prevent them from swaying and dropping. The heart-shaped shiny green betel leaves hang heavy on the vine; they will be ready to be plucked in a few days.

The temperature in the lush green structure is cooler than the outside. Ajay says that extreme hot, cold and excessive rain are the biggest threats for betel plants. In scorching summer, if the maximum temperature rises beyond 40 degrees Celsius, he must manually spray them with water. He puts an earthen pot of water, carrying roughly five litres on his shoulder, and using his palm to spread the flow of the water, moves slowly between the vines, sprinkling water as he walks. "We have to do it multiple times if the weather is too hot. But there is no way to protect them from rain and cold," he points out.

“Although there has been no study on the extent to which climate change has contributed to the erratic weather, the changing weather patterns indicate the impact of climate change,” says Sarthi, who is the Dean of the School of Earth, Biological and Environmental Science at Central University of South Bihar at Gaya.

Ajay has eight cottah (roughly 10,000 sq ft) of his own land, but it is scattered, so he has taken a three cottah plot on lease at Rs. 5,000 a year and spent about Rs. 75,000 to cultivate Magah i betel leaf in the leased land. He took a loan of Rs. 40,000 from the local self-help group, which has to be repaid in the next eight months by paying Rs. 6,000 every month. “So far, I have deposited only Rs. 12,000 in two instalments," he says, speaking to us in September 2023.

Ajay is sprinkling water on betel plants. He places an earthen pot on his shoulder and puts his palm on the mouth of the pot. As he walks in the furrows the water drips onto the vines
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Ajay is sprinkling water on betel plants. He places an earthen pot on his shoulder and puts his palm on the mouth of the pot. As he walks in the furrows the water drips onto the vines

Although Ajay's wife, Ganga Devi has her own bareja , losses have forced her to also seek wage work outside
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Although Ajay's wife, Ganga Devi has her own bareja , losses have forced her to also seek wage work outside

Ajay’s wife, 40-year-old Ganga Devi sometimes helps him in the field, and also does agricultural labour work in other farmers’ fields. “It is a laborious job but we get just 200 rupees daily,” she says about her wage work. Their four children – a nine-year-old daughter and sons aged 14, 13 and 6 years, study in a government school in Dheuri.

Crop losses caused by extreme weather events have forced betel leaf farmers to work as labourers at other farmers' betel fields as they have expertise in this crop.

*****

Magahi betel leaf get its name from Magadha where it is exclusively cultivated. The Magadha region of Bihar includes Gaya, Aurangabad, Nawada and Nalanda districts of south Bihar. “No one knows how and when the first Magahi plant cuttings reached here but it has been growing for generations. We heard that the first plant came from Malaysia,” says farmer Ranjit Chourasia, who has a deep interest in the leaf and is the one who applied for the Geographical Indicator (GI) tag for Magahi paan leaf.

A Magahi leaf is the size of a young child's palm – 8 to 15 cm long and 6.6 to 12 cm wide. Fragrant and soft to the touch, there is almost no fibre in the leaf so it dissolves very easily in the mouth – a singularly outstanding quality that makes it superior to other species of betel leaf. Its shelf life is longer too. After plucking, it can be kept for 3-4 months.

Ajay Chaurasia is tying the plant with a stick so that it does not bend with the weight of leaves. Magahi betel leaves are fragrant and soft to the touch. There is almost no fibre in the leaf so it dissolves very easily in the mouth – a singularly outstanding quality that makes it superior to other species of betel leaf
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
Ajay Chaurasia is tying the plant with a stick so that it does not bend with the weight of leaves. Magahi betel leaves are fragrant and soft to the touch. There is almost no fibre in the leaf so it dissolves very easily in the mouth – a singularly outstanding quality that makes it superior to other species of betel leaf
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Ajay Chaurasia is tying the plant with a stick so that it does not bend with the weight of leaves. Magahi betel leaves are f ragrant and soft to the touch. There is almost no fibre in the leaf so it dissolves very easily in the mouth – a singularly outstanding quality that makes it superior to other species of betel leaf

"You have to wrap them in wet cloth and keep them in a cool place and check daily if any leaves are rotting. If so, you have to immediately remove it otherwise it will spread to other leaves," says Ranjit. We watch him wrap the betel leaves, seated on the floor at his pucca house.

He places 200 leaves on top of each other and cuts the stem with a hacksaw blade. Then he ties the leaves with thread and puts them in a bamboo basket.

Betel plants are propagated via cuttings since they don't bear flowers, hence no seeds. "When a fellow farmer's crop fails, other farmers share the cuttings from their crops with him to re-establish his field. We never take money from each other for that,” Ranjit Chaurasia says.

The vines are grown in a bareja and it costs around Rs. 30,000 to build a bareja covering a cottah (roughly 1,361 sq ft); the cost goes up to Rs. 45,000 for two cottahs . The soil is ploughed into long and deep furrows, and the stems are planted besides the furrows where soil accumulates so that water does not reach the plant's root as water logging at the root rot the plants.

Ranjit Chaurasia’s mother (left) is segregating betel leaves. A single rotting leaf can damage the rest when kept together in storage for 3-4 months. 'You have to wrap them in wet cloths and keep them in a cool place, and check daily if any leaves are rotting and immediately remove them or it will spread to other leaves,' says Ranjit (right)
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
Ranjit Chaurasia’s mother (left) is segregating betel leaves. A single rotting leaf can damage the rest when kept together in storage for 3-4 months. 'You have to wrap them in wet cloths and keep them in a cool place, and check daily if any leaves are rotting and immediately remove them or it will spread to other leaves,' says Ranjit (right)
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Ranjit Chaurasia’s mother (left) is segregating betel leaves. A single rotting leaf can damage the rest when kept together in storage for 3-4 months. 'You have to wrap them in wet cloths and keep them in a cool place, and check daily if any leaves are rotting and immediately remove them or it will spread to other leaves,' says Ranjit (right)

In its one year life, a Magahi betel plant produces at least 50 leaves. A leaf is sold for a rupee or two in local markets as well as in the wholesale mandi of Banaras in Uttar Pradesh. It is a cash crop, but the Bihar government considers it as horticulture, hence farmers do not get benefits of agricultural schemes
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
In its one year life, a Magahi betel plant produces at least 50 leaves. A leaf is sold for a rupee or two in local markets as well as in the wholesale mandi of Banaras in Uttar Pradesh. It is a cash crop, but the Bihar government considers it as horticulture, hence farmers do not get benefits of agricultural schemes
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

In its one year life, a Magahi betel plant produces at least 50 leaves. A leaf is sold for a rupee or two in local markets as well as in the wholesale mandi of Banaras in Uttar Pradesh. It is a cash crop, but the Bihar government considers it as horticulture, hence farmers do not get benefits of agricultural schemes

A single vine of Magahi betel produces at least 50 leaves in its year-long life. A leaf is sold for a rupee or two in the local markets as well as in the wholesale mandi of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh – the biggest betel leaf mandi in the country.

Magahi betel leaf was awarded a GI in 2017. The GI is for leaves grown exclusively in 439 hectares of the geographical region of Magadha. And the farmers were excited and relieved to have the GI. However, as the years passed, they say they have not benefited. “We had expected that the government would advertise Magahi which would generate more demand and we would get a good rate, but nothing happened,” Ranjit Chaurasia tells PARI. The sad part is that despite GI tag government is not doing anything for betel leaf farmers. Government is not considering betel as agriculture,” he says.

Betel leaf cultivation comes under horticulture in Bihar,  and farmers do not get benefits of agricultural schemes like crop insurance. “The only benefit we get is compensation when our crops are damaged due to bad weather but the compensation amount is laughable,” Ranjit Chaurasia says of the Rs. 10,000 compensation for damage of a hectare (approximately 79 cottah ). “If you calculate it in terms of a cottah then each farmer gets around Rs.126 for loss in one cottah .” And he adds that farmers have to visit the district agriculture office many times so often they don’t claim compensation.

*****

Left: Karuna Devi and her husband Sunil Chaurasia at their home. Karuna Devi had taken a loan of Rs. 1 lakh to cultivate Magahi betel leaves, in the hope that she would repay it from the harvest. She mortgaged some of her jewellery as well.
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini
Right: Ajay and his wife Ganga Devi at their house in Dheuri village. The family lost a crop in 2019 to severe cold, and in October 2021 to heavy rains caused by Cyclone Gulab. 'I incurred a loss of around Rs . 2 lakh in both the years combined,' he says
PHOTO • Shreya Katyayini

Left: Karuna Devi and her husband Sunil Chaurasia at their home. Karuna Devi had taken a loan of Rs. 1 lakh to cultivate Magahi betel leaves, in the hope that she would repay it from the harvest. She mortgaged some of her jewellery as well. Right: Ajay and his wife Ganga Devi at their house in Dheuri village. The family lost a crop  in 2019 to severe cold, and in October 2021 to heavy rains caused by Cyclone Gulab. 'I incurred a loss of around Rs . 2 lakh in both the years combined,' he says

After losing their crop to extreme heat in 2023, Sunil and his wife now work in the bareja of other farmers. "To run the household, I have to work as labour. Working at bareja has been easy for me because I have been cultivating paan for many years,” he says. Sunil earns Rs. 300, and his wife Karuna Devi Rs. 200 a day for working 8-10 hours. The earnings help run the house for the family of six: a daughter aged 3, and three sons ages one, five and seven.

In 2020, covid-19 induced lockdowns also caused losses. “During the lockdown, everything- from the market to vehicles were closed. I had 500 dholi [a bundle of 200 betel leaves] paan kept in the house. I could not sell it and it rotted,” he recalls.

Karuna Devi says, “I often tell him to leave [betel leaf] cultivation.” However, Sunil brushes her concerns off saying, “it is the legacy of our forefathers. How can we leave it and what will we do even if we leave it?”


This story is supported by a fellowship in memory of a trade unionist from Bihar who championed the struggles of marginalised people in the state.

Umesh Kumar Ray

उमेश कुमार राय साल 2022 के पारी फेलो हैं. वह बिहार स्थित स्वतंत्र पत्रकार हैं और हाशिए के समुदायों से जुड़े मुद्दों पर लिखते हैं.

की अन्य स्टोरी Umesh Kumar Ray
Shreya Katyayini

श्रेया कात्यायिनी एक फ़िल्ममेकर हैं और पीपल्स आर्काइव ऑफ़ रूरल इंडिया के लिए बतौर सीनियर वीडियो एडिटर काम करती हैं. इसके अलावा, वह पारी के लिए इलस्ट्रेशन भी करती हैं.

की अन्य स्टोरी श्रेया कात्यायिनी
Photographs : Shreya Katyayini

श्रेया कात्यायिनी एक फ़िल्ममेकर हैं और पीपल्स आर्काइव ऑफ़ रूरल इंडिया के लिए बतौर सीनियर वीडियो एडिटर काम करती हैं. इसके अलावा, वह पारी के लिए इलस्ट्रेशन भी करती हैं.

की अन्य स्टोरी श्रेया कात्यायिनी
Editor : Priti David

प्रीति डेविड, पारी की कार्यकारी संपादक हैं. वह मुख्यतः जंगलों, आदिवासियों और आजीविकाओं पर लिखती हैं. वह पारी के एजुकेशन सेक्शन का नेतृत्व भी करती हैं. वह स्कूलों और कॉलेजों के साथ जुड़कर, ग्रामीण इलाक़ों के मुद्दों को कक्षाओं और पाठ्यक्रम में जगह दिलाने की दिशा में काम करती हैं.

की अन्य स्टोरी Priti David