(Chhendipada, Orissa) It was just after 7 a.m. on Thursday, September 4, when the first marchers—men, women, youth, children—streamed down the street, into view.
They wielded placards in Oriya and English, mounted atop young, green bamboos harvested from their lands for this overcast morning. (Turned upside down, these could double up as a counter to police batons, a villager had explained to me the previous afternoon: “We won’t hit them first. But if they hit us, let them not expect us to take it lying down.")
As dawn’s drizzle turned into pouring rain, the villagers' slogans rose to a crescendo through a canopy of black umbrellas.
"Adani Company (sic) Down Down. Down Down, Down Down."
"We Can Die, But Not Give Up Our Land!"
Chief Minister Naveen Patnaik, and Prime Minister Narendra Modi were targeted too.
“Modi used to sell tea, now he wants to sell us to Adani”, one man hollered.
“Give us land if you want to take our land”, chanted a gaggle of women farmers in bright sarees and rubber slippers.
As I took photographs of the hundreds of protesters, I was periodically asked, “Are you with us, or with the company?” It was a reflection of deep mistrust of the media among villagers, who alleged that local journalists were routinely bribed by industry, and did not report their side of the story.







