Visiting farmers’ homes in 1984, the year Frontline was born, almost the first thing I was met with everywhere was a glass of fresh milk. In some parts of western Maharashtra, you would be given an additional tumbler as you left the household. In coastal Andhra Pradesh, the milk often came in a silver tumbler—a sign of respect for the guest, and a statement of the status of a farmer doing well.
In farm households in Tamil Nadu, you got the milk in pure brass tumblers. Sometimes, that brass tumbler would have fabulous filter coffee. By the 1990s, across many states, the silver tumblers had given way to stainless steel ones. After 1991, they still gave you fresh milk, but now it often came in a cracked piece of crockery, maybe a cup chipped at the edges. By the mid-1990s, I found myself drinking out of glass tumblers.
By 2000, the milk had been replaced by chai. In Maharashtra’s Vidarbha region, by 2003-04, it was black chai. The amount of sugar in the tea—conventionally a sign of affection and respect—also kept shrinking. By the middle of that decade, the glass tumbler had disappeared. The small quantity of black chai now came in those hideous plastic cups you get aboard trains and at bus depots.
In 2018, I met the freedom fighter Ganpati Bal Yadav at his home in Sangli, Maharashtra. After an interview lasting some hours, he saw me off with fresh milk. In an aluminium tumbler.

















