On National Highway 30, you can go from Raipur, the capital city of Chhattisgarh, to Jagdalpur, the district headquarters of Bastar. On this stretch, in Kanker district, is a small town called Charma. Just before Charma, there is a small ghat. Driving down this ghat some weeks ago, I saw around 10-15 villagers, most of them women, returning from the nearby forest with headloads of wood.

They were all from two villages located not far from the highway – Kochwahi in Kanker district, and Machandur in Balod district. Most of them were Gond tribals who work as marginal farmers or agricultural labourers.


02-DSC09578-PT-Headloads on the highway.jpg

03-PT-PT-Headloads-on-the-highway.png


The few men in the group had strapped the wood onto bicycles, while all the women, except one, carried it on their heads. I spoke to them; they said they left home early in the morning and returned by around 9 a.m., usually on Sundays and Tuesdays, after collecting firewood for their homes.


04-PT-PT-Headloads-on-the-highway.png


However, not everyone was collecting it just for home use. I believe a couple of them were taking the firewood they'd gathered to market. Marginalised people – and they exist in large numbers here – make a few rupees from the sale of firewood. It is one fragile plank of the livelihoods people eke out in this troubled region.


05-DSC09341(Crop)-PT-Headloads on the highway.jpg


Purusottam Thakur
[email protected]

Purusottam Thakur is a freelance journalist, photographer and documentary filmmaker, who reports from Chhattisgarh and Odisha. He also works for the Azim Premji Foundation and was a PARI Fellow in 2015.

Other Stories by Purusottam Thakur